Shirts, Bras, and Vests
Shirts
Cholis
Cholis are generally plain shirts which show off the midrif and   are pinched in the middle.  They are often used by tribal          dancers and durring rennaisance performances.  They are       fairly simple to make and very comfortable to wear.  The          picture to your right shows an example of a choli.
Coin Shirts
Coin Shirts are something that I've seen recently from various  vendors.  If you know how to crochet you could probly make    your own fairly easily.  I think they work well for practicing and you could probably  use them in tribal and caberet                  performances.  To the right you can see an example of this     type of shirt
Fringed Shirts
Fringed Shirts look very similar to the coin shirts except          instead of coins they have fringe and pailettes.  It would make  a good practice shirt and you can use them in caberet            performances.
Peasant Shirts
Peasant Shirts are great for Renaisance Fairs and Gypsy        style dancing.  They aren't terribly hard to make and can be     purchased from many places.  You can wear them with a vest over them, a bodice, or just by themselves however you feel     works best for you.
Bras
Caberet
  Caberet Bras usually consist of beads, sequins, and pailettes.       Many have jewels and other shiny notions.  I won't lie to you...       They are not easy to make.  They take a lot of time and patience    and a detail oriented eye.  However for those of you brave enough   try and make your own costume I have included instructions          below.  You can also but a pre made bra  from any department       store and decorate it but you need one with stiff cups (stay away    from foam cups, they disintegrate with sweat) or a bra base from    some dealers, then decorate it.
Materials Needed:
1 Pattern or paper to make your own pattern
Not so nice fabric (optional)
Fabric to be used as lining
Sturdy fabric
Buckram
2 heavy duty hooks and eyes
Sequins
Beads
Appliques (optional)
Shisha Mirrors (optional)
Palietes (optional)
Jewels (optional)
Strings of Faux Pearls (optional)
Sewing Machine (your gonna need it for this one)
Beading Needle and Waxed Thread or dental floss.
Scissors
14 Gauge Wire
Wire Cutters
Instructions:
1. Measure the distance around your bustline and your cup size.        When making or using a pattern make sure you have a seam         allowence (I reccomend using a 1/2 inch) for the sides and the       over lap were your hooks are going to go.
2. If your making your own pattern your going to need to experiment    with paper and your not so nice fabric untill you find a pattern         that fits you well.  If your using a pre-made pattern you sould still    try to make sure it's going to fit the way you want it to, by              making one out of the not so nice fabric first.
3. Now that you have your pattern made and you know it will fit           well, you have to make the base of the bra.  Take the buckram        and sandwich it in between two layers of your sturdy fabric.            When you've got it together you may want to pin it together in a      few places to keep it from sliding around.  Now, zig-zag, the hell     out of that fabric.  Zig-zag it in every direction you can untill the      whole fabric is covered in zigs and zags.  This will now be              treated as one big piece of fabric.  This will take a long time to       make so prepare to be sitting at your sewing machine for a            couple hours at least.
4. Now you cut your pattern out of the buckram and then two out of    your lining adding another 1/2 inch seam allowance to the edges    of the pattern.
5. Once you've gotten your pieces cut out you can either baste the     lining over the sturdy buckram mix or you can just iron the edges    over and let that keep it in place for now.
6. Sew the side seam(s).
7. Sew in wire for cups.
8. Decorate the front of the bra however you want to, or see some       ideas for decorating your belt.
9. Now your lining should be sewed on quite well under the                decorations, so remove the basting stitch if you used one.
     10. Add your fringe, if any.
     11. Sew the inside lining on with larger stitching (this will make it         easier to open it back up if you should ever need to).
     12. Attach the hook and eye to the ends of the base and it's ready       to wear.
Tribal
  Tribal Bras usually consist of shells, tassles, string fringe,             stones, natural things, coins, and clay beads.  They are                sometimes easy to make and sometimes hard depending on         what you use.  Here's how to get started on making one.
Materials Needed:
1 Pattern or paper to make your own pattern
Not so nice fabric (optional)
Fabric to be used as lining
Sturdy fabric
Buckram
2 heavy duty hooks and eyes
Beads (made of clay, wood, bone or other natural materials)
Appliques (optional)
Shisha Mirrors (optional)
Shells (optional)
Charms (optional)
String Fringe (optional)
Tassles (optional)
Coins (optional)
Sewing Machine (your gonna need it for this one)
Beading Needle and Waxed Thread or dental floss.
Scissors
14 Gauge Wire
Wire Cutters
Instructions:
1. Measure the distance around your bustline and your cup size.        When making or using a pattern make sure you have a seam         allowence (I reccomend using a 1/2 inch) for the sides and the       over lap where your hooks are going to go.
2. If your making your own pattern your going to need to experiment    with paper and your not so nice fabric untill you find a pattern         that fits you well.  If your using a pre-made pattern you sould still    try to make sure it's going to fit the way you want it to, by              making one out of the not so nice fabric first.
3. Now that you have your pattern made and you know it will fit           well, you have to make the base of the bra.  Take the buckram        and sandwich it in between two layers of your sturdy fabric.            When you've got it together you may want to pin it together in a      few places to keep it from sliding around.  Now, zig-zag, the hell     out of that fabric.  Zig-zag it in every direction you can untill the      whole fabric is covered in zigs and zags.  This will now be              treated as one big piece of fabric.  This will take a long time to       make so prepare to be sitting at your sewing machine for a            couple hours at least.
4. Now you cut your pattern out of the buckram and then two out of    your lining adding another 1/2 inch seam allowance to the edges    of the pattern.
5. Once you've gotten your pieces cut out you can either baste the     lining over the sturdy buckram mix or you can just iron the edges    over and let that keep it in place for now.
6. Sew the side seam(s).
7. Sew in wire for cups.
8. Decorate the front of the bra however you want to, or see some       ideas for decorating your belt.
9. Now your lining should be sewed on quite well under the                decorations, so remove the basting stitch if you used one.
     10. Add your fringe, if any.
     11. Sew lining on straps for soulders and attach them in the                appropriate place.
     12. Sew the inside lining on with larger stitching (this will make it         easier to open it back up if you should ever need to).
     13. Attach the hook and eye to the ends of the base and it's ready       to wear.
Vests
Turkish-Macedonian
  Turkish-Macedionian vests are great for ren fairs.  They are            something that work well for tribal/gypsy/fusion dances.                 Depending on the fabric you make them out of you can even use    them in caberet performances.
Materials Needed:
A Heavy Fabric (Such as Velvet, Velveteen, Courduroy, Brocade, or   other Heavy cottons)
Lining
Not So Nice Fabric (optional)
Trim (optional)
Metalic Braid (optional)
Hook and Eye
Intructions:
1. If your making your own pattern your going to need to experiment    with paper and your not so nice fabric untill you find a pattern         that fits you well.  If your using a pre-made pattern you sould still    try to make sure it's going to fit the way you want it to, by              making one out of the not so nice fabric first.
2. Cut your patern out of your heavy fabric and your lining.
3. Sew the side Seams on heavy fabric and lining (like making two     vests).  Leave the shoulders open.
4. Sew any darts you need on both the heavy fabric and the lining
5. Sew on your decorative trim and/or braid on the "right" side of the    fabric.
6. Sew the lining and heavy fabric together so that the "right" sides     are facing each other. leave the shoulders open.
7. Turn the vest inside out pulling it through one of the soulders (it       will probably be hard but it can be done... I know, I've done it          several times.).  The "wrong" sides should now be facing each        other.
8. Fold the shoulders in so that the raw edge is not visible and then    sew them together.  You will probably have to do this part by          hand but you can do it with a machine (it won't look as nice,          though)
9. Sew your hook and eyes onto the underbust straps.  Now, your      ready to go.
Ghawazee
A Gawazee Vest is great for rennaissance fairs and                re-enactors.  It's a good way to have an authentic look.  They   are also good if you like a more covered look.  Generally they  are used by tribal dancers.  Although I've never seen one used in a caberet performance I'm not going to rule out the              possibilities.
Materials Needed:
A Heavy Fabric (Such as Velvet, Velveteen, Courduroy, Brocade, or   other Heavy cottons)
Lining
Not So Nice Fabric (optional)
Trim (optional)
Metalic Braid (optional)
Hook and Eye
Intructions:
1. If your making your own pattern your going to need to experiment    with paper and your not so nice fabric untill you find a pattern         that fits you well.  If your using a pre-made pattern you sould still    try to make sure it's going to fit the way you want it to, by              making one out of the not so nice fabric first.
2. Cut your patern out of your heavy fabric and your lining.
3. Sew the side Seams on heavy fabric and lining (like making two     vests).  Leave the shoulders open.
4. Sew any darts you need on both the heavy fabric and the lining
5. Sew on your decorative trim and/or braid on the "right" side of the    fabric.
6. Sew the lining and heavy fabric together so tat the "right" sides       are facing each other. leave the shoulders open.
7. Turn the vest inside out pulling it through one of the soulders (it       will probably be hard but it can be done... I know, I've done it          several times.).  The "wrong" sides should now be facing each        other.
8. Fold the shoulders in so that the raw edge is not visible and then    sew them together.  You will probably have to do this part by          hand but you can do it with a machine (it won't look as nice,          though)
9. Sew your hook and eyes onto the coat so that they are not            visible. (If you want you could use gromets instead and then lace    it up) Your Done!
Other
You may come across other vests that can be used in middle  eastern dance.  The one pictured here to your right is an         antique vest from Egypt or Turkey (I think, don't hold me to      that), that can be worn by either a man or a woman.